Nibs
Vintage Fountain Pen Nib Sizes and Grades Explained: EF to Stub, Italic and Oblique
A nib marked "F" on a pen from one maker can write wider than an "M" from another. Vintage nib grades were never a single standard, many nibs carry no grade at all, and decades of use or regrinding can change how any nib writes. Here is how to make sense of nib grades and read a listing without guessing.
What a nib grade actually describes
The writing point of a fountain pen nib is a small bead of hard alloy, called tipping, welded to the end of the tines. The nib grade describes roughly how wide that tipping lays down a line. The common round grades, from narrowest to widest, are:
| Grade | Typical description | Good for |
|---|---|---|
| EF (extra fine) | Narrowest everyday line | Small handwriting, notes, cheap paper |
| F (fine) | Narrow line | Everyday writing, ledgers, forms |
| M (medium) | Mid-width line | General writing and letters |
| B (broad) | Wide, wet line | Signatures, larger handwriting |
| BB / OBB and wider | Very wide line | Display writing, headings |
Treat the table as a direction, not a measurement. Line width also depends on how much ink the feed delivers, the ink itself, the paper and your writing pressure.
Why grades vary so much on vintage pens
There are four main reasons the letter on a vintage nib is a loose guide at best.
Different makers, different scales
Each maker set its own standard, and those standards changed over time. A fine from one brand and a fine from another can look noticeably different on the page. Many collectors also find that nibs made for markets with smaller writing systems tend to run finer than Western nibs of the same grade.
Unmarked nibs and other code systems
Plenty of vintage nibs carry no grade at all. Some makers marked grades with numbers rather than letters, or with a colour code on the pen rather than on the nib. Esterbrook's interchangeable nib units, for example, used numbers to identify nib types (our Esterbrook J-series guide covers them). If a listing says "fine" for an unmarked nib, that's the seller's opinion.
Wear
Decades of writing at one angle can wear a flat spot into the tipping. The nib then writes smoothly for the original owner's angle and scratchily for everyone else. Some writers love a "worn-in" nib; others find it unusable.
Regrinds and swaps
Nibs get reground into stubs or italics, and nibs get swapped between pens. A pen may be wearing a nib it didn't leave the factory with. That's not always a problem for a writer, but it matters to a collector who wants an original pen.
Stub, italic, oblique and other shaped nibs
Shaped nibs give thicker downstrokes and thinner cross-strokes without any flexing. That makes them a safer way to get line variation than a flexible nib, because they don't rely on spreading the tines.
Stub
A flattened, rounded tip. Gives mild line variation and is forgiving of writing angle. A popular, easy-going choice.
Italic
A flatter, crisper edge for stronger line variation. Crisp italics are less forgiving and can catch on paper if your angle wanders.
Oblique
Tip cut at a slant, meant for writers who rotate the pen. Common on some older German pens. Feels wrong if you don't hold the pen that way.
Accountant / manifold
Very fine or very firm nibs made for ledgers or pressing through carbon copies. Firm by design; not flex.
When a listing shows a shaped nib, ask whether it's factory or reground. A well-done regrind can write beautifully, but a buyer deserves to know. If the tipping looks unusually thin, or the nib's shape looks off compared with other examples of the model, it has probably been reworked.
Where flex fits in (and doesn't)
Nib grade and nib flex are separate things. A fine nib can be rigid or flexible, and so can a broad. Flex describes how far the tines spread under pressure, which changes line width as you write. It's the most over-claimed feature in vintage pen listings, so treat any flex claim as something to verify rather than a fact. The site's Pelikan 400 flex article shows how much nib behaviour varies even within one model.
Don't test flex by pressing hard. A nib that wasn't made to flex can be sprung (bent permanently) with surprisingly little pressure. If you're not sure, write normally.
Gold, steel and plated nibs
Nib material affects feel more than line width. Many vintage nibs are gold, often marked with a karat figure such as 14K or 18K, or with a fineness number such as 585 or 750 (parts per thousand of gold). Steel nibs were common on more affordable pens, and some steel nibs were gold-plated, which is a finish, not solid gold.
A marking tells you about metal, not about writing quality: a good steel nib can write better than a tired gold one. For what nib markings do and don't prove, see gold nib hallmarks explained.
How to judge a nib from a listing
Photos rarely show nib grade clearly. Here's what to ask for and look at.
- A close photo of the nib face and the underside. You want to see any grade marking, the shape of the tip and the feed.
- A side profile of the tip. This shows whether the tipping is still there and whether the tines are level.
- A writing sample on lined paper, ideally with a ruler or a common object for scale. That one photo answers most grade questions.
- A plain question: "Is this the original nib for this pen, and has it been reground?"
- Tines meet evenly at the tip with no visible gap (unless the pen is inked, when a hairline gap is normal).
- Tipping is visible as a small bead; it isn't worn away or missing.
- No cracks at the breather hole or the shoulders of the nib.
- The nib sits centred on the feed and doesn't wobble.
To research how nib type affects what buyers pay for the same model, compare completed listings with different nibs. Searching sold vintage italic-nib pens next to plain fine or medium examples of the same model is a good start.
Which nib grade should you buy?
For most people starting out with vintage pens, a fine or medium round nib is the safest choice. It's forgiving of writing angle, works on most paper, and is easy to re-sell if your taste changes.
- Small handwriting, cheap paper, forms: EF or F.
- Letters and journaling: F or M.
- Signatures, larger hands, showing off ink colour: M, B or a stub.
- Line variation without risk: a stub or cursive italic, not a flex nib.
A loupe helps a lot when you're comparing nibs in hand. A 10x is plenty for checking tipping and tine alignment.
Frequently asked questions
Is a vintage fine nib the same as a modern fine?
Not reliably. Every maker set its own standard, and those standards changed over the decades. Ask for a writing sample rather than trusting the letter.
What does 14K or 585 on a nib mean?
Both indicate gold content. 14K and 585 both mean roughly 58.5 percent gold; 18K and 750 mean 75 percent. The mark tells you about the metal, not how the nib writes.
Can a nib be reground to a different size?
Yes. A skilled nib worker can grind a broad round nib down to a stub or italic, or smooth a scratchy tip. Grinding removes tipping, so it can't add width, and a regrind should always be disclosed when the pen is sold.
Why does my vintage nib feel scratchy?
Common causes are misaligned tines, tipping worn at an angle that differs from yours, or a nib that needs smoothing. Try rotating the pen slightly first. If that doesn't help, have the nib looked at rather than sanding it yourself.
The bottom line
A nib grade on a vintage pen is a hint, not a promise. The writing sample, the tipping and an honest answer about regrinds tell you what you're actually buying. For most first purchases, a fine or medium round nib from a seller who shows a writing sample is the smart move. Add stubs and italics once you know what you like.
When you're ready to browse, search vintage medium-nib pens on eBay, then compare against sold examples of the same model. More guides are on the blog.